A town still haunted by ghosts.

There could hardly be a location that evokes more emotion and divisive views, when reflecting on the Karabakh conflict and its aftermath, than the town of Shusha, or Shushi as it is known in Armenian.

Whilst the majority of the population in Nagorno-Karabakh in the late 1980s was mainly Armenian, the majority of the population in Shusha were overwhelmingly Azerbaijanis. When the conflict started Shusha, with its dominating heights over the main Armenian town of Stepanakert, became the focal point of some very heavy fighting. Eventually Shusha fell to Armenian forces, and its entire Azerbaijani population was displaced. Most of the town lay in ruin. In many ways it became a ghost town, but eventually the small Armenian population grew, as others came in from elsewhere.

For the displaced Azerbaijanis Shusha remains home, and they yearn to go back, the elder ones among them often reminiscing on the old days with much nostalgia. For those who live in Shusha today, it is home and they prefer to call it Shushi. They are trying their best to put the past behind them and to look forward by developing a normal life for their community.

This week they were welcoming international guests. Among them was the Mayor of Bourg-Les-Valence in France, Marlene Mourier, who was visiting the town in the framework of the "French Days in Artsakh" festival. Shushi and Bourg-Les-Valence last October signed a declaration of friendship whose goal is to promote educational, cultural, sport and trade projects. The municipality of Bourg-Les-Valence will organise events dedicated to Karabakh soon, the Mayor said.

All this of course upsets the Government of Azerbaijan who has slammed the agreement and will now put the Mayor on its black-list for visiting Nagorno-Karabakh. But Madam Mourier said that she was not worried about this. On Saturday, the Mayor, together with other VIP visitors from France, accompanied the President of the self-declared Nagorno-Karabakh Republic,  (NKR) Bako Sahakyan in a solemn ceremony at the opening of a vocational school in the town. In a speech, Mr Sahakyan underlined that such institutions were needed and would help prepare qualified specialist using a European experience in this sector.

According to the last census conducted by the NKR authorities the present population of Shusha/i is 4,100, although this figure may also be slightly inflated. But far away from the town there are still many other thousands of Azerbaijanis who still call Shusha home. Often they ask if they will ever return. In some way their ghosts still haunt Shusha. A large part of the town remains destroyed and empty. The Italian photo journalist Roberto Travan in his photo-essay for the Italian newspaper La Stampa recently recorded the level of destruction and abandonment

If ever there was a settlement of the Nagorno-Karabakh conflict Shusha/i would be one of the more difficult issues to be resolved. Its strategic position will continue to be a particularly sensitive matter for both sides.

The destiny of Shusha, like that of the rest of the Karabakh conflict, cannot be based simply on political expediency. At heart must the welfare of the people caught in its tragedy, and a solution that will ensure that the past will not be repeated.

Source: This is a commentary prepared by commonspace.eu, with additional reporting from La Stampa (Italy), News.am, and

Photo: The theatre in Shusha was destroyed during the fighting in the early 1990s. It remains in ruins. Two Armenian children pass the building on their daily walk to school. (Picture courtesy of Roberto Travan/ La Stampa).

 

 

Related articles

Editor's choice
News
Ghalibaf in Baku for 20th session of the Conference of the Parliamentary Union of the Member States of the Organization of Islamic Cooperation (OIC)

Ghalibaf in Baku for 20th session of the Conference of the Parliamentary Union of the Member States of the Organization of Islamic Cooperation (OIC)

The 20th session of the Conference of the Parliamentary Union of the Member States of the Organization of Islamic Cooperation (OIC), was held in Baku. Among those attending was the Speaker of the Iranian Parliament (Chairman of the Islamic Consultative Assembly of Iran) Mohammad Bagher Ghalibaf. On Wednesday (24 June) Ghalibaf also met the Azerbaijan  president Ilham Aliyev Aliyev, emphasized that the fraternal Iranian people have recently experienced enormous suffering, and wished peace to the souls of tallen. Noting that the Azerbaijani people and state stood by the Iranian people and state during the war, Aliyev described telephone conversations with Iranian President Masoud Pezeshkian, as well as other contacts at various levels and manifestations of solidarity, as clear examples of this. Stressing that the suspension of the war was greeted with joy by the Azerbaijani side,  Aliyev said that Baku issued an fficial statement welcoming the end of hostiliities “ I wish there were no wars in the region ,” said President Aliyev, noting that both Azerbaijan and Iran suffered from wars in their time. Recalling with satisfaction Mohammad Bagher Ghalibaf's previous visits, preisdent Aliyev touched upon the significance of his participation in the 20th session of the Conference of the Parliamentary Union of Member States of the Organization of Islamic Cooperation (OIC). He expressed hope that this event would contribute to the development of Islamic solidarity. He announced that our country will host the OIC Summit next year and noted that preparatory work has already begun. Aliyev emphasized that Mohammad Bagher Ghalibaf's visit will create a good opportunity to discuss issues related to the bilateral agenda. Ghalibaf expressed gratitude for the support provided by Aliyev, the Azerbaijani state and people during difficult times for Iran. He also expressed gratitude to the Azerbaijani leader for visiting the Iranian embassy in Bakuand expressing condolences over the death of the Supreme Leader of the Islamic Republic of Iran Ayatollah Seyed Ali Khamenei and numerous civilians, as well as for the congratulatory message sent to Ayatollah Seyed Mojtaba Hosseini Khamenei on the occasion of his election as Supreme Leader of the Islamic Republic of Iran. Noting that the war was a great misfortune and tragedy, the Galibaf emphasized that during that period, our country remained committed to good-neighborly relations with Iran, provided humanitarian aid, and the Azerbaijani people stood by Iran. He added that this will forever remain in the memory of the Iranian people. Emphasizing that Azerbaijan and Iran have always stood by each other, even in difficult times, Mohammad Bagher Ghalibaf described this as yet another example of the unity and solidarity of our countries. The guest stated that this war also demonstrated to Iran the importance of contacts with Muslim countries. Mohammad Bagher Ghalibaf noted that during the war, Iran learned who its friends and enemies were. Azerbaijan, as a friendly country, stood by Iran. During the conversation, confidence was expressed in the even more dynamic development of Azerbaijani-Iranian relations in the future, and it was emphasized with satisfaction that the construction of the Agbend-Kelale bridge has already been completed and that the Araz corridor, which runs through Iran, will also serve to expand transport opportunities in the region. At the meeting, an exchange of views took place on the prospects for bilateral relations, including issues of interparliamentary cooperation, and the activities of the intergovernmental commission were touched upon.

Popular

Editor's choice
Interview
Thursday Interview: Murad Muradov

Thursday Interview: Murad Muradov

Today, commonspace.eu starts a new regular weekly series. THURSDAY INTERVIEW, conducted by Lauri Nikulainen, will host  persons who are thinkers, opinion shapers, and implementors in their countries and spheres. We start the series with an interview with Murad Muradov, a leading person in Azerbaijan's think tank community. He is also the first co-chair of the Action Committee for a new Armenian-Azerbaijani Dialogue. Last September he made history by being the first Azerbaijani civil society activist to visit Armenia after the 44 day war, and the start of the peace process. Speaking about this visit Murad Muradov said: "My experience was largely positive. My negative expectations luckily didn’t play out. The discussions were respectful, the panel format bringing together experts from Armenia, Azerbaijan, and Turkey was particularly valuable during the NATO Rose-Roth Seminar in Yerevan, and media coverage, while varied in tone, remained largely constructive. Some media outlets though attempted to represent me as more of a government mouthpiece than an independent expert, which was totally misleading.  Overall, I see these initiatives as important steps in rebuilding trust and normalising professional engagement. The fact that soon a larger Azerbaijani civil society visits to Armenia followed, reinforces the sense that this process is moving in the right direction." (click the image to read the interview in full)